Type: Sport, 115 ft (35 m)
FA: Kevin Capps, 2022
Page Views: 415 total · 17/month
Shared By: Kevin Capps on Nov 16, 2022
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Granite Oak will test your crimp strength, technical granite skills, and skin farming abilities! Some 5.12 climbing gets you to a good shake before the first crux. From there, you launch into two back-to-back cruxes on crimps and small footholds, with the second crux leading up and right to gain a small ramp/ledge at the base of the arete. After resting on the ledge, prepare for the redpoint crux, which traverses left on tiny edges, with a cryptic hand-shuffling sequence, before gaining a crack system for one final shake as you meet up with the start of Botany of Desire’s crux. At the anchor, thank your skin and pulleys for working so hard!

Like a tree, Granite Oak has many branches that yield a few different variations. Consult the beta photo for the best topo beta.

Other variations have been done and are below:

Flying Circus, 13c/d: climb the first two cruxes of Granite Oak, then arrive at the ledge rest and finish on the easier second half of Temptation Arete.

Buns of Desire, 13c/d: climb Bun in the Oven to the ledge rest, then climb up and traverse left to finish on Botany of Desire’s anchor.

Fully Cracked, 13+: climb Granite Oak for all three cruxes, and instead of finishing on Botany..., continue up moderate crack climbing on the top of Half Cracked, for an easier finish. This doesn’t really add any quality to the route, but it could be a useful way to finish if the crag ever gets busy.

Location Suggest change

Start right in the middle of the wall, and head up and a little right and then back left to finish on Botany.... Check out the photo for better beta.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts.

Photos

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