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Routes in Trojan Bunny Buttress
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Botany of Desire S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bruise Collector, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bucket List, The T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bun in the Oven S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Crawfish S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Cuervo Gold S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Delivering Dynos S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dog Will Hunt S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Europithacus S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Evolution T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Fire On The Mountain T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Goldshut Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Granite Oak S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Half Cracked T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Lick My Plate T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Only A Flesh Wound S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pondemonium T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sloping Surprise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sonata T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Streatch T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Temptation Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Thy Holy Hand Grenade S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unicorn Tower S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
| Type: | Sport, 115 ft (35 m) |
| FA: | Kevin Capps, 2022 |
| Page Views: | 416 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Kevin Capps on Nov 16, 2022 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
Granite Oak will test your crimp strength, technical granite skills, and skin farming abilities! Some 5.12 climbing gets you to a good shake before the first crux. From there, you launch into two back-to-back cruxes on crimps and small footholds, with the second crux leading up and right to gain a small ramp/ledge at the base of the arete. After resting on the ledge, prepare for the redpoint crux, which traverses left on tiny edges, with a cryptic hand-shuffling sequence, before gaining a crack system for one final shake as you meet up with the start of Botany of Desire’s crux. At the anchor, thank your skin and pulleys for working so hard!
Like a tree, Granite Oak has many branches that yield a few different variations. Consult the beta photo for the best topo beta.
Other variations have been done and are below:
Flying Circus, 13c/d: climb the first two cruxes of Granite Oak, then arrive at the ledge rest and finish on the easier second half of Temptation Arete.
Buns of Desire, 13c/d: climb Bun in the Oven to the ledge rest, then climb up and traverse left to finish on Botany of Desire’s anchor.
Fully Cracked, 13+: climb Granite Oak for all three cruxes, and instead of finishing on Botany..., continue up moderate crack climbing on the top of Half Cracked, for an easier finish. This doesn’t really add any quality to the route, but it could be a useful way to finish if the crag ever gets busy.
Location
Start right in the middle of the wall, and head up and a little right and then back left to finish on Botany.... Check out the photo for better beta.
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