Type: Trad, Alpine, 1800 ft (545 m), 2 pitches, Grade III
FA: Kim (Richard) Deane, John Oswald, Mike Stewart, Bud Stovel, Parker Williams Aug 31/1963
Page Views: 305 total · 10/month
Shared By: Drew Brayshaw on Nov 14, 2022
Admins: Rukas Fodor, Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Climb the gully between Trireme Wall and Gladsheim to the ridge crest (snow or boulders). Gain the ridge crest and continue up (lots of 4th) to the first crux. Continue via more 4th to the second crux, which leads to a chimney tunnel through the ridge from the south to the north side! Continue on again to where it gets easier. Walk to the base of the final summit tower and scramble to summit. Definitely somewhat more challenging on the cruxes than the NW Ridge of Sir Donald.

Location Suggest change

You're looking at it from Mulvey Lake.

When descending, plan on two rappels (30 m and 10 m) and a hell of a lot of 4th class downclimbing.

Protection Suggest change

Light rack.

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