Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Stranger Than A Warmup

C1 R, Aid, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2 from 4 votes
FA: Brittany Goris
Utah > Southeast Utah > Bartlett Wash
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

It's short, it's ugly, and it's not fun in any way whatsoever. Put on some eye protection and get ready to experience the true heart of choss, as you burrow through the most horrific Entrada sandstone the desert has to offer. As sand rains down from above, more sand will blast at you from below through the wind tunnel, making you rethink any affection you ever had for Moab rock. You'd probably find better stone on the absolute worst of the Fisher Towers than on this steaming turd. 

If there was an option to give a lower rating than the bomb, or perhaps negative stars, that's what this would be.

On its own, there is literally no redeeming quality about this route, and it's guaranteed to be the worst part of your day, if it doesn't make you quit climbing altogether. 

I never led/freed this route, only aided it, and I hope to God I never do get on the sharp end. You probably shouldn't either. Better yet, don't even climb it. 

All that being said, it does make a half decent warmup for Stranger than Fiction, if you're tired of getting flash pumped by starting your day on 5.14.

Location

From Stranger than Fiction, tiptoe along the base of the wall to the right across an exposed ledge until an improbable tunnel through some boulders appears, which takes you to the base of the route, which is also in a tunnel. 

Protection

An InReach to call for a rescue when everything breaks. Two bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

As seen from StF
[Hide Photo] As seen from StF
There she is
[Hide Photo] There she is

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] lmao amazing Nov 15, 2022
Lor Sabourin
Flagstaff, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] DNF Nov 24, 2022
Anus Herder
Colona, CO
[Hide Comment] Looks pretty quality, might have to finally make a trip out to Bartlett wash, thanks for the psych Brittany! Dec 5, 2023