All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Bartlett Wash

Stranger Than A Warmup

Name: Stranger Than A Warmup
Rating: 2.0

C1 R

Routes in Bartlett Wash

L › R R › L A › Z

	Petrified Hourglass T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Stranger Than A Warmup C1 R
	Stranger Than Fiction T 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a

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Type:	Aid, 50 ft (15 m)
FA:	Brittany Goris
Page Views:	638 total · 25/month
Shared By:	Brittany Goris on Nov 8, 2022
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

It's short, it's ugly, and it's not fun in any way whatsoever. Put on some eye protection and get ready to experience the true heart of choss, as you burrow through the most horrific Entrada sandstone the desert has to offer. As sand rains down from above, more sand will blast at you from below through the wind tunnel, making you rethink any affection you ever had for Moab rock. You'd probably find better stone on the absolute worst of the Fisher Towers than on this steaming turd.

If there was an option to give a lower rating than the bomb, or perhaps negative stars, that's what this would be.

On its own, there is literally no redeeming quality about this route, and it's guaranteed to be the worst part of your day, if it doesn't make you quit climbing altogether.

I never led/freed this route, only aided it, and I hope to God I never do get on the sharp end. You probably shouldn't either. Better yet, don't even climb it.

All that being said, it does make a half decent warmup for Stranger than Fiction, if you're tired of getting flash pumped by starting your day on 5.14.

Location

From Stranger than Fiction, tiptoe along the base of the wall to the right across an exposed ledge until an improbable tunnel through some boulders appears, which takes you to the base of the route, which is also in a tunnel.