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Routes in Palisade Head
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A Feathery Tong T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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A mind Forever Voyaging A3+ PG13 |
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A Sinner’s Last Gift T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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A Twister With Teeth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Aching Alms T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Aching Light T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Amphitrite [CURRENTLY CLOSED] T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Arms Race T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Avoidance 2x TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Bluebells T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bridges over Troubled Water T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bugaboo Project T 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Choice of a New Generation, The T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Christmas Tree Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Danger High Voltage T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Don't bring a knife to a gun fight a.k.a. "Gun Fight" T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Double Breasted Anchor T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Driving in Duluth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Ecclesiastes T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Echoes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Echoes Arete S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ex Nihilo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Faith T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fall of Ascomycetes, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Flight School T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fool's Progress, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Gales of November, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Genetically Correct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Great Bird Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grunge Off (aka Goliath's Finger Crack) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Happy Happy, Joy Joy S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Hidden Agenda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hidden Treasure T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hyper Light Drifter S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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I Could've Been a Contender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Iron Maiden T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jim's Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Johnny Tsunami T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Keystone T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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KGB T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Killing Me Softly T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Laceration Jam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Lapidarian T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lightweaver S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Long Distance Commute T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lord of the flies (free) AKA: Comrades in Slings (aid) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mabley's Traverse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Mack the Knife T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mann Act T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Metamorphosis, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mr. Lean T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Night Vision T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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No Sugar, No Baby T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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North Tower, South Face T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Northern Exposure (***CLOSED***) T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Old Men in Tight Pants TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Oz - (AKA The Road To Emerald City) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Palisaid T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Pamplemoose T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Phantom Corner T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Phantom Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Poseidon Adventure T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Praise the Many Seraphim T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Presents T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pussyfoot T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Quartz crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Queen of Venus T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Quetico Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rapprochement T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rejuvenation S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Scars and Tripes Forever T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Smear Job T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Smuggler's Cove T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Socket Wrench T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Soli Deo Gloria T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sound of One Hand Jamming, The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Spruce Tips T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Squab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sudden Impact TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sunday Excursion T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Sunny and Sheer T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Superior Arete T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Superior Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Swimsuits and Harnesses T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Swizzlestick Legs T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Urge to Mate T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Warrior's Last Dance On Earth TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Water Babies T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wise Guys T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Withering Heights T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Yamadori [CURRENTLY CLOSED] T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Yellow Feather T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Taylor Krosbakken, November 2022 |
| Page Views: | 436 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Taylor Krosbakken on Nov 7, 2022 |
| Admins: | K Ice, Kris Gorny |
Access Issue: Temporary Peregrine Falcon access restrictions
Details
When in doubt, you can inquire about the closures at the State Park Visitor Center (5702 Highway 61, Silver Bay), via email (tettegouche.statepark@state.mn.us), or by phone (218-353-8800).
Description
Want to get your crimp on? Deadpoint to a hueco? Gaston so hard your shoulder might explode? This unique face climb will test all your techniques.
Set your top anchor climbers right of Danger High Voltage. (see pics). Rap down broken ledges trending left to the clean face. Rap to a small ledge (1’ x 3’) with a bolted anchor about 1/3 of the way up the cliff. A bit below the larger ledges of DHV.
For the climb, traverse left from the belay ledge and then up on easier but not super straightforward climbing. Before you know it you are in the midst of a super fun and cryptic crux sequence. Very slight reprieve as you traverse out right and set up for a deadpoint to the hueco. Hold on until the rest ledge up and left.
From here, go back out onto the face and execute another crux sequence. Follow that big flake out left and then back right, surmounting the ledge for your last crux. Once you get up onto the easier blockier climbing, trend right and then straight up to your anchor.
Don’t get tunnel vision, the route traverses back and forth quite a bit.
Lots of discussion on whether this should be 12c or b. Get on it and vote, so the consensus can decide. It's just such a different style than most Palisade Head Routes. Face climbing on little crimps and actually slightly slabbed through the crux.
Location
Head south from the parking lot a couple hundred feet and look for the obvious 10' x 10' flat ledge a few steps down from the rest of the cliff edge. Looker's right of a small birch near the cliffs edge. If you are familiar with other routes, it is in between Feathery Tong and Danger High Voltage.
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