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Free The Nip-Pull

5.12c, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2 from 3 votes
FA: Laurel Falk, Teague Hendrick // EQP: Mike Russo/Kemper Brightman. Oct 2022
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 7 - Upper Highway > Raycreation Area > Upper Wall

Description

Warm up the fingers and prepare to move and pull through delicate, positional, and powerful sequences on small holds to the chains. 

The route starts close to the first bolt of Raycreation, but climbs independent rock. Ascend three bolts with some balance and technique until you encounter the routes namesake hold. Pinch it correctly to free-climb through the short but powerful sequence that then deposits you into a final section. From here, seek out the victory jug and make your way to the chains. 

#freethenipple

Location

Start just right of Raycreation, left of the big tree. Tree is off (obviously).

Felt it was easiest to belay below the boulder than on. 

Protection

6 bolts to SS lower-offs

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Hey Mike, can I have my spoon back now?
[Hide Photo] Hey Mike, can I have my spoon back now?
Teague Hendrick eyeing the end of the crux on his flash send for the most coveted second ascent
[Hide Photo] Teague Hendrick eyeing the end of the crux on his flash send for the most coveted second ascent
Laurel Falk cruisin' the crux
[Hide Photo] Laurel Falk cruisin' the crux
All smiles for Laurel on her first FA (and as a flash)! Congrats!
[Hide Photo] All smiles for Laurel on her first FA (and as a flash)! Congrats!
A signature red tag... No spooning until further notice.
[Hide Photo] A signature red tag... No spooning until further notice.
Don't TR without taking measures to reduce the risk of this happening! The rope rubs hard over some sharp knobs.
[Hide Photo] Don't TR without taking measures to reduce the risk of this happening! The rope rubs hard over some sharp knobs.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kemper Brightman
The Old Pueblo, AZ
[Hide Comment] Aka the Red Spoon Project, this line had been scouted by several developers over the years, but finally became too obvious to ignore as the now dead tree has begun peeling itself from the cliff (sad). A worthy if not condition dependent addition to the Ray ticklist. Oct 28, 2022
Michael Russo
Albuquerque, NM
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] Thanks for pointing it out to me Kemper, and helping with the route! It was too hard for me at this juncture in time, but glad the young crushers could nab some FAs Oct 28, 2022
Nick Henscheid
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] As tempting as it is to swing over from the Raycray anchor, I don’t recommend TRing this without a big anchor extension. Unless you want to coreshot your partner’s brand new rope, that is! (See pic)

Honestly fun except for that one move, which feels pretty much impossible. Aug 6, 2023