All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Northern BC > Mt MacLean

Andy's Marmots

Name: Andy's Marmots
Rating: 4.0

5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British

Routes in Mt. MacLean

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	Andy's Marmots T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Chaconne T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	Shitty Sugarpants T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
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Type:	Trad, Alpine, 295 ft (89 m), 2 pitches
FA:	Andy Lecuyer and Gary McQuaid
Page Views:	184 total · 7/month
Shared By:	Gary McQuaid on Oct 24, 2022
Admins:	Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Pitch 1: Follow an obvious prow full of cracks and an easy roof about 3/4 of the way up. Pitch ends on a decent ledge. Gear belay. Fixed nut in place.

Pitch 2: Follow prow and cracks to a tight notch at the top of the route. Gear belay with a fixed nut.

Descent: Rappel on fixed nuts. The first rappel will reach the top of the first pitch. One can rappel off the fixed nut at the top of the first pitch but they will come up at least a few meters short. One can rappel to the climber's right to lower angle rock. There is a fixed nut in the area (might be hard to find) to make a short rappel to the ground. The terrain is very easy either way and down climbing would be easy. Another option is to rappel the single-bolted anchors from Shitty Sugarpants and there is always the option of walking off. The mountain goats have left a decent trail along the top of the wall.