Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Routes in Public Service Wall
|
Haverty T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
Demolition Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Useful Public Service T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Nineric T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Naked Lap T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Popcorn Cloud T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Mandatory Work T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Rubbin’ the Nub T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Out On A Whim T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Unnamed R-facing Corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
[Redacted] T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Blockhead T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Haley’s Head T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
1 to 4 crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Full Moon Good Drugs T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Church T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Light Duty T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
|
|
Sweat n' Sour T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Sweatin' T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Some Short Bullshit T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Carl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Heckle Me T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Patience T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Juvenile Delinquent T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Trash Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Buckle Up T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Ātman T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Repo man T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Public Offender T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
|
|
Go Drown in a Lake of Diet Coke, Fucker! T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Not Too Spicy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Monticello Quilt Group T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Pinche Puta T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Bridge Tournament T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Hands Up T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Dreams of White Linen T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Morning Wood T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Public Defender T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Federation of Insterstate Truckers. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Variante Argentina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Long Way Home, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Hobby Horse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Kevin Heinrich, 10/22 |
| Page Views: | 427 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Kevin Heinrich on Oct 23, 2022 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
2025 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-as…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
If you like sport movement on micro cams, look no further!
30 feet of varied right-facing corner climbing leads to a small roof/aspect change. Continue up the flare with strenuous laybacking stopping with kneebars as needed to stack .1s At some point before the anchor you will have to transition into the flare directly, finishing relatively easily and securely.
Super stoked to find this unique line in plain sight for my first IC FA!
Protection
Short answer: 5x.1(or black alien), 3x.2, 2x.3, 1x#1-#4, a draw. All BD sizes and Z4s.
Very long answer:
-Before the roof, I placed (in order) a .2, #4, .3, #1, and a #2 with a draw. (The climbing isn't hard so this is a bit much)
-Then a .3 in the apex of the roof (which also helps keep the rope from getting sucked in)
-Over the roof I placed 2x.2, then 4x.1, then a .1/.2 offset (another .1 would work too), then a #3 in deep after transitioning into the flare (a #4 or #5 could be more versatile, however)
Very long answer:
-Before the roof, I placed (in order) a .2, #4, .3, #1, and a #2 with a draw. (The climbing isn't hard so this is a bit much)
-Then a .3 in the apex of the roof (which also helps keep the rope from getting sucked in)
-Over the roof I placed 2x.2, then 4x.1, then a .1/.2 offset (another .1 would work too), then a #3 in deep after transitioning into the flare (a #4 or #5 could be more versatile, however)
- *A couple more notes on the protection. This crag can get quite sandy post rain and this thin crack is no exception. I personally would not have been super psyched to go for it if I had not recently cleaned the inside of the crack with a very small brush. That said there are some small variations in the crack width that allow you to get your .1s nice and tight!
1 Comment