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Routes in Public Service Wall
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1 to 4 crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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[Redacted] T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Blockhead T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bridge Tournament T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Buckle Up T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Carl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Church T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Demolition Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Dreams of White Linen T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Federation of Insterstate Truckers. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Full Moon Good Drugs T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Go Drown in a Lake of Diet Coke, Fucker! T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Haley’s Head T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hands Up T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Haverty T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Heckle Me T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hobby Horse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Juvenile Delinquent T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Light Duty T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Long Way Home, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Mandatory Work T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Monticello Quilt Group T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Morning Wood T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Naked Lap T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Nineric T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Not Too Spicy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Out On A Whim T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Patience T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Pinche Puta T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Popcorn Cloud T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Public Defender T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Public Offender T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Repo man T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Rubbin’ the Nub T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Some Short Bullshit T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sweat n' Sour T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Sweatin' T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Trash Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Unnamed R-facing Corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Useful Public Service T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Variante Argentina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ātman T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Kevin Heinrich, 10/22 |
| Page Views: | 420 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Kevin Heinrich on Oct 23, 2022 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas (LIFTED 9/10/2024)- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas (LIFTED 9/10/2024)- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
If you like sport movement on micro cams, look no further!
30 feet of varied right-facing corner climbing leads to a small roof/aspect change. Continue up the flare with strenuous laybacking stopping with kneebars as needed to stack .1s At some point before the anchor you will have to transition into the flare directly, finishing relatively easily and securely.
Super stoked to find this unique line in plain sight for my first IC FA!
Protection
Short answer: 5x.1(or black alien), 3x.2, 2x.3, 1x#1-#4, a draw. All BD sizes and Z4s.
Very long answer:
-Before the roof, I placed (in order) a .2, #4, .3, #1, and a #2 with a draw. (The climbing isn't hard so this is a bit much)
-Then a .3 in the apex of the roof (which also helps keep the rope from getting sucked in)
-Over the roof I placed 2x.2, then 4x.1, then a .1/.2 offset (another .1 would work too), then a #3 in deep after transitioning into the flare (a #4 or #5 could be more versatile, however)
Very long answer:
-Before the roof, I placed (in order) a .2, #4, .3, #1, and a #2 with a draw. (The climbing isn't hard so this is a bit much)
-Then a .3 in the apex of the roof (which also helps keep the rope from getting sucked in)
-Over the roof I placed 2x.2, then 4x.1, then a .1/.2 offset (another .1 would work too), then a #3 in deep after transitioning into the flare (a #4 or #5 could be more versatile, however)
- *A couple more notes on the protection. This crag can get quite sandy post rain and this thin crack is no exception. I personally would not have been super psyched to go for it if I had not recently cleaned the inside of the crack with a very small brush. That said there are some small variations in the crack width that allow you to get your .1s nice and tight!
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