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Routes in Blackburn Rock
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Blackburn Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Horse and His Boy, The V1 5 |
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Prince Caspian V0 4 |
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Stranger Than Paradise T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 125 ft (38 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Geoff Ris, Mike Wilkinson in 2022 or probably some old crusties in the 80s |
| Page Views: | 222 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Wilkinson on Oct 13, 2022 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
Overlooked (or undocumented) classic that leads to one of the absolutely best overlooks in the gorge area.
Start up the at first unappealing wide crack with a sizable rhodo growing out of it. Plentiful face holds make the climbing easy but runout, but you can protect with a #6 in the back. The crack narrows as the face holds start to disappear and you get into steeper terrain. Grunt through some tricky jams on dirty feet, pass a small tree and you should end up on a tiny ledge below a roof.
Set a belay here with some finger sized gear, or keep going right through the roof if the drag isn't too bad. Plug some gear and cut feet while pulling the roof, leading to dirty slab above. Top out to a tree belay and say hi to any hikers who might be there.
Descent: Climbers left of where you topped out, look for a lower ledge with some boulders. Do 1 tree rap to get down to that level, and then scramble down under a rock to a ledge that would put you about 40 feet left of the face you just climbed. There should be a perfect rap tree that will get you down with a 70, maybe even a 60.
Location
Very close to the southwest tip of Blackburn rock. It is left of STP by about 200 feet, and right of ICMTT by about 200 feet, situated near a corner with a large boulder behind it. There is also a chimney system that goes all of the way to the rap ledge that is noted, and it's about 40 feet climbers left of this route. Look for the rhodo growing out of the base and look up for the roof crack.
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