Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Dancing with the Ents

5.9 PG13, Trad, Alpine, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches,  Avg: 2 from 2 votes
FA: Rob Brodeur, Mike Friesen, Sept 2022
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Sea to Sky (N o… > Phelix Creek > Mt Shadowfax

Description

Pitch 1 - 5.8

Follow the left corner up to a bushy ledge, then onto a flake before finishing left of a roof pulling trees until you're on top of First Ledge. Tree belay. Can be skipped via a low 5th gully to the right.

Pitch 2 - 5.8

Climb the face left of the obvious corner. Scrambling up cracks and shelves until you reach Crescent Ledge. Tree belay.

Pitch 3 - 5.9

Move the belay to the far left of Crescent Ledge climbing over a large boulder along the way. Scramble up a corner with horizontal cracks on its right side to a small ledge. Follow blocky twin cracks up and left. Once on the ledge scramble up and left to a tree belay that resembles the Watcher of the Mines of Moria (an octopus). 

Pitch 4 - 5.7

Pull up low-angle blocks and ledges to the top.

Tree raps to the ground.

Location

Walk from the hut along the trail, and turn left towards Shadowfax. A half dead tree marks where we entered the wooded area that guards the first pitch.

Protection

Tree Belays

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Hairy crack enroute to P1
[Hide Photo] Hairy crack enroute to P1
Mike visualizing his moves before pitch 3
[Hide Photo] Mike visualizing his moves before pitch 3
On the approach, Mike standing just below the half dead tree.
[Hide Photo] On the approach, Mike standing just below the half dead tree.
Mike on the bushy ledge of pitch 1
[Hide Photo] Mike on the bushy ledge of pitch 1
Route
[Hide Photo] Route

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Drew Brayshaw
Chilliwack, BC
[Hide Comment] This is likely the same as Blazing Saddles, 5.9, FA 1998 Sep 15, 2022