A Red Sun Rises

This aesthetic alpine route tackles a left-of-center line on the furthest east face of Gandalf, about 650m E of the summit. It features adventurous climbing on great granite, an easy approach, mostly good protection, and a bit of gardening on occasion. It was climbed ground up in a day; this is not a perfectly clean route. The beautiful setting and fun climbing though makes us recommend it.

Special notes: 

• The first three pitch lengths are around 35-40m each. A single 70m rope could possibly be used to escape from the first belay ledge after P1, but escape after the longer P2 would require double ropes or a more creative solution. 

• A nut tool will prove useful on lead when a bit of gardening is required to find a placement.

• This is an adventurous alpine route: always be wary of loose rock.

P1: 5.10a. Scramble up a short left ramp to gain the crack. A unique large flake feature provides fun climbing. Ascend until the crack thins - tiptoe delicately around the thin section using a ramp and a seam on the left. A powerful move with an undercling/sidepull flake gains ledges and ramps that lead to the first (tree) belay. 

A small redirect to the climber's left of the belay tree will make the top-belay more pleasant rather than pulling rope through the tree.

P2: 5.10b. A low crux featuring a steep flared crack leads to ledges. Follow the crack upwards, wandering slightly when necessary, to gain the next belay, a large sloping ledge with an attractive offwidth in the left corner. Build a gear belay (medium or larger gear & a nut) at the base of the offwidth (recommended). There is a possible tree belay option.

There are two possible unclimbed variations for the last pitch, the beautiful slightly overhung corner offwidth (likely a C4 #6), and a vertical crack near the left arete.

P3: 5.9. Walk to the climber's right side of the sloping ledge and consider placing a redirect to lessen rope drag. Climb up blocky terrain staying right to enter into a chimney. Hang your backpack below you! The original line weaves upwards tightly between two chockstones on well-featured rock, emerging onto a small ledge. Being wary of loose blocks, stay right and scramble up the gully. Veer up and left towards the second tree on the left for a belay. A wonderfully fun finish to the main event!

More P3 notes: More rounded climbers may require staying to the outside of both chockstones. A small cam placement can be found mid-chimney. Be wary of rope drag on this pitch.

1-2 short pitches: Climb up the boulder just up and right of the tree belay and bushwack through dense trees up and right for a short distance before cutting left through more trees and bush to exit climber's left into scrambley terrain. 

From here, gain the ridge for a fun class 3/4  ridgeline scramble to the summit of Gandalf and descend via the hiking trail, or (likely faster but unknown) scramble loose steep terrain westward and then down to the lake. 

Bonus note: The morning of the first ascent, smoke had filled the valley and the sun was fiery red as it rose above the mountains. However, blood had not been spilled that night.

Approach: From the Brian Waddington hut, follow a marked trail for 500m towards the upper lake (elev 1770m). About 120 m before the upper lake, a well-trodden trail branches right and climbs steeply through the forest. Follow this trail for 400m until a boulder field is reached, with the large rock wall in full view. Scramble 200m over boulders to the lowest part of the face. 

The route starts about 20-30m right of the lowest part of the granite face, starting up a near vertical crack that begins 4-5m off the ground and runs to the top of the wall. See topo picture.

Cams, doubles in small sizes is useful. Nuts.