The Schnoz

This is a true adventure route.  When viewing the route from the Hwy 244 there is a large nose like feature about half way up the ridge.  There is zero fixed gear so solid trad skills are necessary.  While the climbing is not significantly difficult, several of the sections are daunting.  This route follows a ridge that has two defined breaks that have thrilling steps-across moves that will either have the leader smiling or crying.  This route is really fun but it isn't for the starting 5.7 leader.  Run-outs are common on each of the 4 pitches.

Pitch 1 (5.7, 120 feet) - See the photos for an image of the start.  Climb up between the primary face and the detached flack.  Carefully climb up the ridged face to a pair of cam placements near a small twiggy pine sticking out of a crack.   The leader can either move up and left to easier ground and then scamper back right to the ridge or take the thin crack to the right.  The upper ridge crest can be followed and protected via a slung horn and small cam placement.  Belay at the end of the crest via a large prong.  A 240cm sling is handy to sling the prong.

Pitch 2 (5.7, 40 feet) - The start of this short pitch is defined by the break in the ridge.   Down climb slightly to a small pinnacle that fills the break.  Step across the gap and plug in a few cams into horizontal cracks.  Commit the rest of your body to the other side, reach up and  left for a significant hold and scramble to a ledge.  Climb the second step and belay from a secure stance with a small tree. 

Pitch 3 (5.6 - 85 feet) - Down climb into gap until the gap can be stemmed.  Step across, plug in a few cams into the horizontal, and commit to the other side.  A large horn can be slung at the completion of the step across.  Climb up higher for a micro cam placement and run it out on easier terrain to the horizontal.  A small but solid nut can be finangled into the horizontal.  Run it out up and to the left on easier ground while passing the Schnoz on your left to a perch at the base of the upper short headwall.  A horn can be used as the belay.

Pitch 4 (5.6, 25 feet) - A small nut can be worked into the overhead crack.  Work right to the flake, place a little gear, and work back to the left and mantle onto a small ledge.  Climb the short unprotected chute to the summit.

Descent: A walk-off is possible from the summit via the Crack of Doom.  Scramble off the back to the right and into the timbered drainage.  Follow the drainage down and to the left. Hug the left wall until it funnels into an ominous chasm.  Scramble down into the chasm and follow it until it exits on the other side of the formation.  A short scramble will get back to the base of pitch 1.  

See the approach route on the map.