PRINT: Rock Climb Nice Lady, -Shagg Crag

Nice Lady

5.13b, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),

Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: Dan Smith (Safety Dan) 9/11/22
Maine > -Shagg Crag

Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons in Maine Details

2025 April 4 - Climbing closure routes now in effect--All routes to the right of "The Elephant Knows"/"The Ritual Buttress" are currently closed for nesting peregrines.

For more info. Please contact Dr. Erynn Call, MDIFW State Raptor Specialist with any questions: erynn.call@maine.gov.

To learn more about peregrines in Maine, check out this link: maine.gov/ifw/fish-wildlife…

Description

Bring your endurance, crimp strength, and creative resting ability. Fire the Fat Lady V7 intro boulder (3 bolts) to the rail and traverse left. Skip some bolts to reduce drag on the traverse and fire the Ginseng crux (extending the post crux bolt is useful). Try to get a shake and do the Nice Tooth traverse, fire that crux, and take it to the chains! Fat Lady into Nice Tooth is the Nice Lady. The big endurance linkup.

Location

Start as per Fat Lady and bail left to Nice Tooth

Protection

Permas (8-9) depending on how many you skip. Extending some draws helps.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The opening boulder problem

Trying to get something back before the climbing continues