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Adder Crack
5.13b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 3.7 from 3
votes
Routes in The Longhouse
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[Redacted] T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Firewater T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Stein Line, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hunter-Gatherer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Naughty Nurse T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Extreme Vagine T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Longview Dihedral T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Taken for Granite T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Thonghouse, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Shapeshifter T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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PG Tips T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Adder Crack T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Longhouse, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crosmonaut, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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In the Time of Chimpanzees T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Peace Pipe T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 84 ft (25 m) |
| FA: | FA Hazel Findlay, 2012; FA (The Garder) Josh Lavigne, 2014. |
| Page Views: | 338 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | 文哉 中村 on Sep 8, 2022 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: FSR TEMPORARY CLOSURE
Details
Information from: www2.gov.bc.ca/gov/content/…
Stawamus/ Indian River FSR 4823
- 4WD access only; seasonally deactivated
- Branch 01 (Stawamus/ Indian mainline)
- Industrial activities 0-1.5km. Expect delays
- Road closed to all users at new gate at 9.5km; May 9 - September 2, 2024 due to construction activities. Traffic control personnel on site.
- Branch 02 (Shannon Branch to Stawamus Chief and Sea to Sky Gondola)
- Road closed April 15 – May 31, 2024 Monday-Friday, 07:00-11:00 & 12:00-17:00.
- Occasional road closures June 1 - 28, 2024. Traffic control personnel on site during closures.
- Inquiries regarding Branch 02 road closures should be directed to the Sea to Sky Gondola (Kirby Brown at (604) 892-2550 or email Rob Walter. After hours or emergencies: 604-892-2555).
- 4WD access only
- Active industrial operations, use caution. Gate closure at 4.2km in effect; no road access beyond this point. Parking for a limited number of vehicles will be available at the 4.2km location
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Tucked away in the forest, Adder Crack is one of Squamish's best hard cracks with several sort-of variations:
i) The Garder (12d): Climb the flakes to the right and traverse left to bypass the bottom crux of Adder. Not sure whether you'd protect the right with runners, or double ropes. Maybe someone can add some helpful information on this.
ii) Adder Crack (13b?), but climbing up the flakes, placing gear, and then down climbing and climbing the direct. I've heard that this is how the first ascent was done and how some folks have repeated it. Seems like you may want double ropes. Not sure!
iii) Adder Crack (13b?), from the bottom. Though it'd be red-hot ground up, as a headpoint, this was much more reasonable than I anticipated and is what I would recommend. Protected well with a #3 RP placed high from the ground, a Blue Metolius, and a 0.2/0.3 offset cam.
However you do it, just do it! This thing is so, so good.
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