Type: Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 187 total · 6/month
Shared By: Richard Czechowski on Sep 6, 2022
Admins: Jason Halladay, David Riley

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Fun route up the tallest section of the wall. No pitch is super classic but it's generally a long safe romp. Bolts are close together whenever things get more difficult.

Start from the painted name 'Cilber' on the rock. First bolt is up and right.

P1 - Follow the bolts up and slightly right on somewhat slabby rock aiming for a corner/notch with a crack. Good stance and bolt anchors at around 90'. 5.7

P2 - Stem up the crack for 4 closely spaced bolts, then turn the corner left to a stance on the arete. Really fun little section but short at 45'. 5.9+

P3 - Follow the bolts up a long slabby pitch straight up from the belay. 90' 5.6

P4 - Follow red arrows and dots up and quite a bit left to a large corner. The name Cilber should be written in the corner around 90'. 5.4

P5 - Head straight up the steep corner. The first couple bolts are spaced off the belay so take care. At the top of the corner the route trends rightward to the anchors at the top. This pitch is long, maybe 120'. 5.8

Descent: Walk straight east along the ridge following red arrows for maybe 150-200'. When you come to the notch you have two options.

What we did is the standard descent for Cilber. From the notch, scramble down and right along a well worn path to a ledge with a cluster of anchors at the top of a route called Lofi. Descend from here in two ~25m rappels. We had a 70m but I think a 60m would have been okay. From here hike back along the base of the wall.

Another option, you can continue up from the large red dot on the steep wall and along the Toix ridge route on what the guide describes as a fun and straight forward ridge that should deposit you back on the ground and let you hike off.

Location Suggest change

Around the corner and up from Espolón Limaban where a lower angle toe of rock juts out from the wall. The name Cilber is painted on the wall at the start.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts, tie offs, some old pins. Generally well protected but there's some space for gear.

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