Type: Boulder, 12 ft (4 m)
FA: Bryce Viola
Page Views: 423 total · 13/month
Shared By: Troy Fauteux on Sep 5, 2022
Admins: Brad Fauteux, Jason Hayden, Kristen Fiore, Luc-514

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Yes the sit start has now been done! Start sitting with left hand on a good incut pocket used on Bloody Sunday and right hand on a small edge. Using a right heel toe cam blast a massive move to the right start hold of the stand and then do a really tenuous move to come up to the left start hold of the stand. Unfortunately that was the easy part. The crux of the sit is actually being able to core up enough to walk your feet up to get you set up for the first move of the stand. From here being able to fire the first move of the stand is still the crux of the entire boulder so hopefully you have that move pretty wired when trying the full line!

I've been talking about this one for a while now and have tried it quite a bit myself and man is it tough! The intro moves into the stand feel around V10+ for me followed by the stand which is considered V11/12 now.

The first move of the sit will scare away the shorter climbers and the first move of the stand will scare away the taller climbers. Bryce seemed to fit in the box perfectly at around 5'8ish. Another solid V13 for Smuggs!

In case someone asks why we didn't start lower. I decided this was the most logical and fun place to start without taking away quality. Starting any lower would be a total ass dragger and I think would turn a lot of people away from trying it. As it is I think this adds a few really neat moves into the stand and is worth trying if you climb the grade.

Location Suggest change

On the Nemesis Boulder. Park by the bathrooms. The 5 second approach is ideal for projecting this one.

Protection Suggest change

4 pads

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