Type: Trad, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 10 pitches, Grade II
FA: Capriani, Spiri, 1997
Page Views: 234 total · 8/month
Shared By: RKM on Sep 2, 2022
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

I’m surprised this route has not been posted here.  It is a newer, modern, trad/bolt line that has outstanding steep rock.  It is right of (east) of the popular and crowded via Ferrata Col dei Bos/Degli Alpini.  Two routes start up the pyramid buttress, the easier Spigoli Alpini and the ‘Coulisse’.  Steep bolt protected two pitches lead directly up the buttress.  The routes meet at a ledge and the Coulisse drops down a bit and goes right under the ridge.  Excellent climbing for several more pitches on perfect gray dolomiti rock for the seven pitches.  The routes meet again and follow the ridge crest (direct is better) until you meet the end of the shinny cabled via Ferrata.  Drop down a steep gully that used to have cables.  The newer via Ferrata continues for several pitches above this point/ledge.

Location Suggest change

Park at Ristorante da Strobel a mile or so before Falzarago Pass.  Heavily used switchback trail heads up and east to the ruins of a WW1 field hospital.  Continue east, passing the well defined Ferrata start, past the Alpini start and look for a perfect staging area with a bolt 30’ up.

Protection Suggest change

Great bolts, threads in place and can supplement as desired, but not a sport route per say.

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