Split the Uprights
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Type: | Sport, 235 ft (71 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Jason Mills, Paul Fotter, 2022 |
Page Views: | 1,332 total · 41/month |
Shared By: | Jason Mills on Aug 31, 2022 |
Admins: | GRK, Zach Wahrer |
Description
Split the Uprights – the Flathead Valley’s longest route (outside Glacier)! All bolts!
S.T.U. is well-bolted, well-scrubbed, and is a great/safe lead if you’re trying to push your grade a little higher off the ground than you’re used to in NWMT.
The route begins to go into the shade at 10:30 and goes into full shade by 1.
Pitch it out, combine pitches, or, with a 70, a lot of alpine draws, and about 30 ft. of easy simuling, do it as one mega pitch. (An 80 may reach without any simul climbing.)
P1, 5.7: Follow bolts up the slab ramp to a good ledge, 90 ft., eight bolts.
P2, 10.a: A sustained pitch up the steep face, 75 ft., 11 bolts.
P3, two options:
Right Post, 10.a/b: Climb up and right through progressively harder climbing and short, well-protected crux sequences; finish on a mellow slab ramp to the apex of the wall, 70 ft., 11 bolts. Several alpine draws can be helpful on this pitch but aren't necessary.
Left Post, 10.b: A slightly shorter, but more sustained variation. Clip the first three bolts of Right Post and then follow bolts left over the bulge to a good ledge 15 ft. below the top of the wall, 55 ft., nine bolts. Several alpine draws can be helpful on this pitch but aren't necessary.
Three 30m rappels will get you back to the ground.
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