The Opal

This routes starts with two pitches of crack climbing follow by four wild pitches of technical face climbing. While the upper pitches rely on bolts for protection this is not a sport route.  All of the pitches require one to execute difficult moves above your protection, sometimes with consequence. Take care on this old school endeavor. 

P1 - 11a - 45m 
Start up Mercy Street and after about 40 feet step left into a nice right facing corner. Follow this, 11a, until you can start working right to a belay under a small roof.

P2 - 12a - 30m

Work right until you reach a corner. Jam up this with increasing difficulty until you can step left to a good ledge. An excellent technical lead. 

P3 - 11b - 4 Bolts - 15 m. 

From the ledge clip a bolt and start climbing down a ramp passing two more bolts on the way to a large ledge. Keep going left, clipping a final bolt to protect the final moves to a good ledge. Belay at two bolts with rings.

P4 - 13a - 11 bolts - 30m. 

The crux pitch. Start off the left side of the ledge with 5.10-5.11 face climbing to reach a ledge. A few alpine draws will help with rope drag. Upon reaching the sloping ledge clip a high bolt and prepare for a tricky boulder with fall potential back onto the ledge. Two more bolts of climbing lead to a lefward traverse below a thin layback feature. Climb up past three bolts to a hard sequence and a good hold. Clip, and then move left across the face to reach a large horizontal crack and the anchor. Belay at chains at a semi hanging stance.

P5. 12a - 5 bolts - 25 m 

Traverse 15 feet to the right on a good horizontal to reach the first bolt. Execute a balance sequence to reach a second bolt and then crimp and techy your way up to a horizontal with an optional gear placement. Exciting! Work right again to reach another bolt and follow flakes with more optional gear and occasional bolts to a belay in a corner at a small ledge.

(I would recommend a single set of cams to from .3 to #1 for this pitch.)

P6. 11d - 9 bolts - 40m

Clip a bolt way out left and then work your magic to move left across the wall to reach a large rail. Follow the rail up and left, surmount multiple slabby cruxes until you are standing on yet another good rail. From here work up and then right to get established in a shallow right leaning groove. Follow this up until it ends and step right, spooky, to reach better holds and a bolt. Savor the big footholds for a moment before all the holds melt away. Work up and right past more spaced bolts as the angle slowly lowers and you find yourself squeaking your way up to the anchor. Wow. A bold pitch.

You can rappel the route with an 80m rope or two ropes. Start by rapping the route to the base of P4 (the 13a crux).

P6->P5 - 38m. 

P5->P4 - 25m

P4->P3 - 30m. 

From the base of P4 (the 13a crux) you can rap straight down ~20m to an off route anchor with Metolius Rap Hangers. This is the top of Bong King. 

From here rap ~30m to the ground.

The Opal is located on the west (left) side of the South Gulley on a stunning striped wall.

Start in the same corner as Mercy Street put step left after 50 feet.