Cathedral Direct

A great thing to do in the rain. This route was originally done from the cave, out the lip to the Bonfire Ledge, then up a chimney to the summit at 5.9 A2. Little is known about the upper pitches. These days only the first 2 (or 1 long one) are done to the fixed lower off at the roof. This is relatively straightforward, mostly clean and stays totally dry in the rain. 

There are 2 potential starts. The easy way is to aid on the bolts of Molson's Madness to the anchor as a first pitch, then do the meat of the roof crack. The more involved way is to climb to climb the original start, an undercling crack right above Molson's Madness, which requires a bit more nailing and some small clean gear, then link it as one long pitch to the anchor. Here I described the original start.

Start on the crack just above Molson's Madness. Small gear and a few lost arrows left bring you to a gradually widening crack. Lotssss of small to medium sized cams get you through this section. Make sure you and your partner both bring the full rack. Follow the crack to where it juts straight out the roof. Flared placements, potentially another nailing spot and 2 good bolts get you to the anchor. Fix the line and either give yourself enough rope on the backside to reach the ground. Or trail a tag line. Rap to the ground, grab a seat, maybe listen to a podcast, while your second cleans to long traverse. 

Far right side of the Cave. This climbs the perfect crack that splits the ceiling of the cave.