Golden Staircase (full 18-pitch link-up)

A string of rocky outcroppings grace the west face of the Twin Sisters in sub-alpine splendor. Collectively called The Crags, the routes here are grouped in areas that range from Slot Rock to the Upper Great Face.

So, you’re craving that alpine multi-pitch high, but there's rain in the forecast? The Golden Staircase is a fun outing on any given day and an especially good choice for a day when you’re not sure whether (or when) you’ll have to dodge drops from the sky. Start or stop at several points between flights on the staircase, and choose your own adventure every step of the way.

Kudos and thanks to the developer for the vision and thoughtful planning to equip this route for fast and light movement. A single 60m rope and a set of 12 quickdraws will see you through. Bump the draw count to 16 if you want the option to link pitches.

Most sections of this link-up already exist on Mountain Project within separate areas, which makes sense if you’re doing them individually.  The purpose of this entry is to consolidate beta and offer routefinding tips for those looking to link them as a whole. Corrections are welcome!

The original start is at Woodstone. The approach trail spits you out between Woodstone to your left, and Half & Half to your right. You can actually see the start of P3 here, so consider racking up and leaving your daypack.

Continue slightly down and hiker's left, circling around to the start of P1 at Woodstone, at 40°18'23" N 105°3'25"W.

Alternatively, begin “downstairs” at Slot Rock, to cover the full range from the lowest to the highest point of The Crags.

P -3 to P -1 (5.9)

Slot Rock. Climb three pitches of 5.9, then do a 250’ walk from the top of Slot Rock to Woodstone.

P1 (5.9, 70 feet, 6 bolts) 

Climb featured slab to a wide, grassy ledge with a bolted anchor against the upper wall.

P2 (5.10c, 70 feet, 7 bolts)

Start up good edges from the anchor to a thin middle section requiring delicate moves. Pull two roofs on sidepulls and big holds. Find a bolted anchor at the top.

From the top, keep the follower on belay as they scramble up and over the small formation to the SE. Downclimb to a chockstone and across. To the south, find anchors with rap rings (not the ones with chains). This will deposit you right at the base of P3, in a single rap, at 40°18'22" N 105°31'24"W.

P3 (5.9, 100 feet, 9 bolts)

Climb 5.fun up the left side of the slab to an anchor with chains.

P4 (5.11a, 60 feet, 9 bolts)

An intimidating roof looms above. Head straight up, then scoot out to the left in order to pull up and over on little feet but big holds. Find a bolted anchor at the top.

From this position, you can look south and see the obvious North-facing side of Sharksfin with the distinctive Pinpoint formation holding Yellow Butterfly as your next pitch. Scramble and downclimb on over.

P5 (5.9, 70 feet, 5 bolts)

AKA Yellow Butterfly a short, fun, featured slab. Rap to the base of Sharksfin, or lower so that both partners can lead.

P6 (5.10b, 75 feet, 10 bolts)

A low crux with thin feet and finger crack gets you to a ledge, then climb a steeper section with big holds. Skip the chain anchor, and continue to the top, where are you can belay at a two-bolt rap anchor from a comfy seat with a beautiful 360° view.

Rap down this South-facing side of Sharksfin. From here, you have a great vantage point directly across for your next pitch on the opposite wall, which starts at 40°18'21" N 105°31'23"W.

P7 (5.10, 80 feet, 11 bolts)

Divided into two distinct halves, the next pitch begins up crimpy gray slab then transitions into a steeper red rock overhang. This part looks hard, but the holds appear as you need them. Continue to a flat ledge for the two bolt anchor with rings on the right side wall.

P8 (traverse to move the belay)

From the anchors at the top of P7, there is a scramble up with occasional shiny bolts to a small saddle. Down and right (southwest), there is a grassy ledge and a 2 bolt anchor (not equipped for rappel) at the base of an arete.

P9 (5.10-, 100 feet)

Launch up from here following bolts on the arete. Climbing right of the bolt line up a blocky dihedral makes the most sense while you clip bolts within easy reach on the face to the left. Enjoy the exposure!

From the top, follow cairns marking a faint trail through the Enchanted Forest to the base of Druid Tower.

P10 (5.11, 100 feet)

Face climb up to a small overhang at 50 feet with a short, right-facing dihedral above.

P11 (5.11, 115 feet)

Moderate climbing takes you to a steep, red headwall.

Scramble south over the top to a rappel station. Rappel into the notch to a flat spot and anchors on the opposite wall below the next pitch.  You are now in The Dungeon.

P12 (5.11, 80 feet)

A steepening wall takes you to more red rock, the top, and a 2 bolt anchor.

Scramble into the gully/slot just to the south, and carefully downclimb (or belay) to a rappel anchor approximately 35 feet down the slot. Rappel to the bottom of the Upper Great Face.

The next section starts on the left side of the Upper Great Face.

P13 (5.9, 110 feet, 9 bolts, optional #0.5 cam)

Angle slightly left.

P14 (5.9, 120 feet, 12 bolts)

Traverse right.

P15 (5.9, 110 feet, 6 bolts)

To the summit! You’ll pass an anchor for another route halfway up the pitch. Don’t clip it, just continue right to the summit.

Descent

Rap or walk off.

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With thanks to:

Dustin Dyer, Dom R, tbol, David A. Turner, Guy H., Leo Paik, Doug Haller, Byron Murray.

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Links to separate entries:

Woodstone (P1 & P2); Half & Half (P3 & P4); Pinpoint (P5); Sharksfin (P6); Druid Tower (P9-11); Upper Great Face (P12-14).

See description for start options at Slot Rock or Woodstone.