Type: TR, Boulder, 25 ft (8 m)
FA: "Kyle Lacey, July 16, 2020"
Page Views: 306 total · 9/month
Shared By: Kyle Lacey on Aug 7, 2022
Admins: Frances Fierst, C S

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: On Nature Center / City Property; Explicit climbing permission has not been granted from either party. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Start with a left hand under-cling, and a solid right hand gaston towards the lower right hand side of the center boulder face and work your way up a series of good jugs and crimps, side-pulling, under-clinging, and lay-backing your way up the center of the boulder. Feet may seem few and far between, but those that you can find are very forgiving. While the middle section may be a bit tricky, the top out is certainly the crux as all of your good crimps and jugs give way to small, razor sharp crimps, and nasty overgrown slopers. Not to mention, an abundance of grandaddy long legs...

In addition to the crux being at the top of this seemingly highball boulder, be careful, as some of the rock is a bit chossy given the quite literal flakey nature of the stone. A small hand or foot chip (or two) have been reported to come off.

In theory, it can be top roped, although it may inconvenience other users of the park and creek space due to the layout of the available anchors and boulders above the climb. I would recommend you just boulder it.

Location Suggest change

The climb itself can be found in what could best be described as the center most face of the Monkey's Cliff Boulder or, that is, the most flat, or vert, looking face. It is centered between the crack that splits down the left hand side of the boulder, and the nastier, slopey, overhung looking section on the right. The start holds can be found closer to the right hand side of the boulder with the left hand under-cling being just down and right of the "E" located smack in the center of the boulder, and the right hand being just up and right of the left hand (up and left of the light brown coloration on the rock on the right hand side of the boulder). The finish is just a nasty top out just to the right of the center of the boulder.

Protection Suggest change

Bring at least two pads and a spotter for this one! Of course, more pads and more spotters can never hurt. If you decide to try and tope rope it, all of the associated safety equipment for top roping would be required.

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