All Locations > International > S America > Brazil > Minas Gerais > Serra do Cipó > Grupo 3 > Cangaço

Lampião

Name: Lampião
Rating: 4.0

5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British

Routes in Cangaço

L › R R › L A › Z

	Cravo E A Rosa S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Fuga Do Cangaco S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Lampião S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Peixeira S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Virgulino Ferreira S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

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Type:	Sport, 90 ft (27 m)
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	145 total · 5/month
Shared By:	Jim Lawyer on Aug 2, 2022
Admins:	Roberta Zouain, Matt Looby, Jim Lawyer Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Great climbing on this one: a thin boulder problem, endurance sidepulls, then a big roof.

Stick clip. A cool boulder sequence leads to some good jugs at the second bolt. A couple moves up and right lead to a section of right-facing sidepulls. Up this to a bulge with more right-facing sidepulls. Up this to a restful stance on the left. Move up and right to another good stance below the large roof. Trend right through this to an anchor.

Location

The trail meets the cliff at the route Sextão Sessentão, marked by a high step into a gray runnel. Walk right 60' to a deep orange depression. Lampião is two routes to the right of this depression below a face with a reachy boulder problem. (To the right is a 5.14 Cabra da Peste, and to the left is a 12c Maria Bonita.)