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Routes in Dana Plateau
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Third Pillar, Regular Route T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Lenticular Limbo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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High Gravity T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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One That Almost Got Away T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A2-3 |
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Nucular Monkey T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Matt Hoffman & Nick Malik. July 2022 |
| Page Views: | 1,640 total · 49/month |
| Shared By: | blue ribbon on Aug 1, 2022 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Four pitches of stellar climbing and two pitches of fun moderate climbing. This route finishes on the NE arete proper of the Third Pillar of Dana. It climbs half a pitch of the Lenticular Limbo on P3 and the 4th crux pitch is part of the old aid climb/ presumably abandoned free project The One That Got Away.
P1: Climb up the right side of the Texas Block to a bolt protecting the start of the corner. Continue up the corner to a belay out left on the arete about 20' before the corner ends. 35m,10d.
P2: Step right back into the corner or kneebar up the sick flake above the belay to a ledge. Continue up 5.8 double hand crack flakes to moderate blocky climbing to the bolted belay at the bottom of the shield. 60m, 5.10.
P3: Move left off the ledge to the nearest (furthest right) of the right facing corners (overlaps with Lenticular Limbo). Layback over the bulge to an overhanging perfect hands corner. Above the corner continue up and right along a moderate ramp to the bolted belay in the middle of the shield. 40m, 5.10.
P4: Climb the splitter up the headwall with a thin and sustained double cracks crux at the top. This pitch ends on a massive talus-covered ledge, AKA "Tallboy Terrace." Four bolts and gear from green c3 to 0.5 camalot. 30m,11d.
P5: Start on the left side of the massive ledge under the arete. Crisp fingers lead to a crack switch at a bolt. Continue up the arete past 3 more bolts following a fingers splitter to a bolted belay. Four bolts plus gear to 0.75 camalot. 30m, 5.11.
P6: The glory pitch. Climb straight up the arete past a bolt protecting with micro cams in stellar cracks out right. Save a couple green c3's/ purple Metolius for the compression crux up high and a 0.4 camalot fits well after the crux. Top out on the summit about 15' right of the Regular Route. 000 c3 to 0. 4 camalot with doubles in 00-blue Metolius. 20m, 5.11+.
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