Crack-a-liscious

This climbs the crack in the center of the south face of the boulder, before traversing a left-trending crack to finish on the left crack, which actually reaches the top of the climb. The climb mainly revolves around some flexible and tricky foot placement, utilizing the juggy hand-holds which are interspersed along the two cracks.

Stand start at the bottom of the crack in the center of the south face, with the left hand on a gaston-sloper-jug at waist height, and the right on a crimpy side-pull. Pull on and huck your way up through the jugs in the main crack, getting high feet, and eventually making a flexible and delicate reach to holds out left (either a gaston in the traversing crack, or a sidepull in the crack on the far left.) From there, shift your weight onto the crack on the left and swim your hands up to better holds, before topping out on the left crack.

This is my favorite climb on this boulder. It's super balancy, flexible, and tension-y, and has different betas for people with different body types. It goes at about v3 using my method, but the difficulty is mostly tied to your footwork, flexibility, and reach. I'm 5'9" and +0 ape index, and when I first tried this climb 2 years ago I had to use a gaston as a left-hand intermediate. I came back to it this year, about 3 v-grades stronger, and I was able to reach the left crack directly off of high feet and a big right hand lock-off. So perhaps lock-off strength and flexibility are the main factors in successfully reaching the holds out left, rather than just arm length.