Elephant Burial Ground II (Resurrection)
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British R
Avg: 1 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 4 pitches |
FA: | FKA Jerry Cagle and Jim McHattie July 21, 2022 |
Page Views: | 289 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Jerry Cagle on Jul 22, 2022 |
Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
LOCATION
Climb Elephant Burial Ground. EBG II starts a few feet to climber's R from EBG’s bolted belay station, up an obvious seam.
PROTECTION
Pro is few and far between on the upper pitches, but you will find offset cams and stoppers, along with standard cams and tricams to be of benefit. There aren't a lot a lot of tricam placements, but when you need 'em, nothing else will do, mildew. Mostly in the medium to larger sizes.
DESCRIPTION
The long awaited, highly anticipated sequel to Elephant Burial Ground has finally been released...! Spoiler alert: What did the Elephants die of, you ask? Some will say boredom. But, if all you want to do is get high this might be the right Rx for you. That said, bear in mind that elephants are generally peaceful vegetarians, but they are peaceful vegetarians with the ability, when disrespected, to squish you like a grape.
NOTE 1: A single 60m rope is more than adequate.
NOTE 2: The "R" parts are primarily on what most would consider easy ground.
P1: (~60') Climb Elephant Burial Ground.
P2: (~100'?) From the commodious belay ledge atop EBG, step a few feet to climber's R, and track up a short vertical section following an obvious seam starring some friendly, sharply incut holds. There is a small pin protecting the lower section. (Caveat emptor: it's a wee little one: a 3 cm long, A3 knifeblade) After taming the seam, continue on easy ground to the base of a pair of wide cracks (obvious). Build a station here on a comfy slab.
P3: (~175'?) The wider of the two cracks (climber's R) looks appealing, but the exit is occluded by a bush/tree. The other obvious option (climber's L) is well protected and has some interesting moves (and pro). Go up this weakness L of the belay and exit using the handrail. After exiting this sadly too short section, continue on easy ground, heading in the general direction of an obvious, decent-sized pine tree, passing it on its R side. (Look familiar? It's the same one as on No Farm, No Fowl) Continue on yet more easy ground until you can build a nicely situated anchor at another short, steep-ish wall. NOTE: This is the longest of the 4 pitches by a significant degree.
P4: (Another short pitch) From the top of P3, move to the R of the belay up a somewhat awkward sequence, then continue on easy ground (yes, more of that…), aiming for the summit. A good belay can be had using a long sling or cordelette around any of several large blocks.
Finish by scrambling up easy ground to the summit.
Descent: Scramble down a short section of 3rd class terrain near a skinny pine tree, then bear L (R takes you to Gumby's east wall routes) a short distance to a small but lovely saddle connecting Barnum and it’s small, satellite crag passing it on its L side. Head in the general direction of the Incinerator Ridge Trail, but turn L before intersecting it. Bushwhack (easy) a short distance, still keeping L until you intersect a faint trail. Ski the kitty litter and baseballs back to the base.
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