Le Lifting Du Roi

A combination of moderate pitches "lifted" from older routes designed to provide a continuous moderate climb to the summit of the Roi du Siam, a spire that would be impressive were it not for the awesome company overshadowing it. The first half of the route generally follows the left side of a gully. To stay on route stay out of the gully (chossy) and generally on the left side of the arete that forms a buttress which makes up the left margin of a gully. Eventually the terrain eases into easy 5th, then a chimney before trending right towards the base of the headwall. The headwall is gained via a crack that passes through a roof that is the crux (G rated). All belays are bolted and there's a lot of fixed gear and bolts. Some pitches require no gear.

P1: Thin zig-zagging crack leads to a superfluous bolt near the arete. Follow the arete up passed several more bolts to a belay on a comfy ledge. 5b, 30-40m

P2: Climb the left side of the arete via slabs then cracks. 5a, 45m

P3: Head up towards the two dihedrals above. The dihedral on the right has a hand to thin-hands crack. The left maybe easier. 5c, 50m.

The climbing here eases considerably for a while, and the terrain is comparable in difficulty to the end of the cosmiques or crux of the aiguille entreves. There is a chimney that may be more difficult at the midpoint, but where a short belay may be possible. Good segment to simul if you wish to save time.

P4: Diagonally rightwards. Path of least resistance, ends on the left of the gully. 4a, 50m.

P5: Face climb on the left of the arete. Stay out of the gully. 4b, 50m.

P6: Continue up. You will find a chimney on the left and a bolt line up slab on the right. The bolt line is harder (5.10-?). The chimney is also somewhat harder that the previous 2.5 pitches and may warrant a quick belay. The rest of the terrain is 5.easy. 50m, 5b.

P7. Go right up a ramp, around a large house sized block, and circle back around behind it. until you end up basically above the last belay. 50m, 5a.

P8. Navigate up broken 4th class terrain to a ledge on the left with two bolts, just left of a finger crack below a roof. 4a, 45m.

P9: Climb the finger crack which widens to hands, through the roof. Gain the summit pinnacle from climbers right. 45m, 5c. Crux pitch, but protects well with hand sized cams.

Rappel the route to descend.

Start near the rightmost end of the Roi de Siam, near the col between the Petit Capucin and Adolphe Rey via a bolt line on a buttress. Look for a bolted horizontal finger crack. The bolt is about 1' in from the arete.