Bodily Autonomy
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Shannon Wu & Derek DeBruin (first recorded, but actual FA unknown) |
Page Views: | 301 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Derek DeBruin on Jul 6, 2022 |
Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Description
If you prefer, download a PDF of this beta here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XXIqG0d15YYPmaohkDtEc8KKaS6qwVS9/view?usp=sharing
Short but generally fun, with minimal loose rock. Features an improbably straightforward boulder problem through a roof and consistent, engaging climbing on the final pitch.
P0: Low 5th. 75m.
Head up the gulley and trend left toward the ridge on the best available rock. Continue up this low 5th class terrain on generally good rock for about 250 feet. Some parties may choose to simul-climb or scramble this terrain, but it can also readily be pitched out long or short.
This ridge terminates next to a large grassy ledge on the left, at the base of where the wall steepens. Step down onto a ramp and walk left to the apex of the grassy ledge, then walk up the ramp to the right to belay near a small scrub oak.
P1: 5.8 25m.
Wander up the face, aiming for the sweet spot of best protection and best rock quality, which also yields decent climbing. Trend a bit left to a belay stance at the base of a broken, low-angle right-facing corner system, about 15m below a small roof that traverses the wall.
P2: 5.10+ 30m.
Head up the corner and follow it to the left end of the small roof, bypassing the roof via a move or two of steeper crack climbing. Continue on the lower angle terrain above to the larger roof with a horizontal crack near its base. Turn the roof at the weakness where a splitter crack allows for good protection and good jams. (This crux roof could likely be bypassed altogether on the left if needed.) After the roof, angle leftward as the crack continues on easier terrain, stopping on a large grassy ledge to belay. It's also possible to belay just after the roof at horizontals to minimize rope drag and/or haul a pack. The belay can be easily moved to the grassy ledge from there.
P3: 5.9 35m.
Step right off the grassy ledge and head up a slabby ramp, aiming for the base of a right-facing corner system. Continue up the corner system as it steepens. Beneath an overlap, break left onto the face to gain a stance on the arete, passing two fixed pitons on the way. Head back right into the corner (some poor rock) and pull up into a wide hands/fist crack in the back of the now left-facing corner. The terrain eases to the top of the cliff. This pitch can be split with a belay near the top of the ramp to minimize rope drag.
Descent
Descend as for the "Jagged Edge."
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