PRINT: Rock Climb The Book of Souls, Santa Fe Area

The Book of Souls

5.12b, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),

Avg: 4 from 29 votes
FA: Fred Berman, Stephanie Alessandrone
New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Grotto > Grotto Left (E Side)

Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands Details

Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.

Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.

Description

Climb the first three bolts of Bedeviled and continue up the right side of the arete. At the top of the arete work your way right and over a series of small roofs and overlaps finishing on a slab with a hand crack. Great rock, stellar position, and steep, engaging climbing make this a nuevo grotto must do route.

Location

Same start as Bedeviled.

Protection

12 bolts, 7 are permadraws.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mel Russo fighting at the redpoint crux

Jason Halladay starting the inital arete of BOS

Angle perspective of The Book of Souls

Mel Russo dancing up the starting arete as inclement weather brews in the background

Jason pulling the small crimps of the first crux

A good shakeout below the first crux.

Jason getting ready to start into the steeper terrain.

Jason on the upper crux of BOS.

Start up the arete (same start as Bedeviled for 3 bolts), then veer right after 1 or 2 more bolts onto Permadraws and some amazing movement and climbing. Bring one final draw if you stick the final…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Rick Bradshaw
Los Alamos, NM

5.12b

Wow! Brilliant route. Requires a flexible mind and body. The holds were well chalked so finding them wasn’t hard, figuring out how to use them effectively much harder. Super fun through the perma-draws and all the way to the top. Jul 31, 2022

Eric Schnepel
Albuquerque, NM

This route is outstanding. Interesting and somewhat tricky climbing on super cool holds followed by fierce sequence at the final lip.

Stout 12b seemed about right when compared to other Diablo routes. Oct 31, 2022

Grindrite

5.12a

Close enough. Nov 4, 2022

Michael Russo
Albuquerque, NM

5.12a

Superb route. Best of the grade I’ve had the pleasure of climbing so far at Diablo Canyon. Great vision by the developer. This should be on the to-do list of anyone climbing this grade. Apr 9, 2024

Grindrite

5.12a

By popular demand, the last bolt now has a permadraw. May 20, 2024