All the Fallen Stars, Picked Up, in my Pocket
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 1,301 total · 38/month |
Shared By: | JRanish on Jul 3, 2022 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
Nice long pitch of corner cracks and slab.
Climb a low angle groove to a left facing corner (crux) which leads to a long low angle right facing corner that curves to the right. At the end of the corner, move up and then left along a small overlap to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. From here, one can continue up a 1 bolt slab to the Jolly pocket ledge. The section after the left facing corner is actually part of the route Bad Reputation.
Rope drag can be an issue on this pitch.
*** A variation climbs the headwall at the top of the initial mellow groove by moving right at the top of the groove, over a bulge to gain the slab above. Clip a bolt and move up and left to a large incut hold (10-). Slab climbing leads back to the Stars finger crack. 3 bolts on this variation.
Also, if it hasn't been ascended in months, it may be nice to have a nut tool in case some good placements have filled with debris. The bottom groove tends to collect tree debris.
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