Why Here, Tiger Lily?
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 4,219 total · 122/month |
Shared By: | Jon Nelson on Jul 2, 2022 · Updates |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
Three moderate pitches that connect up with a fourth to take you to the top of Lookout Point. Each pitch has several variations. Listed here are probably the easiest for most parties.
p1: Start on a series of steps going up a ramp. The steps stop, but there is a good layback edge on the right wall to make it easy for you to walk your feet up the ramp. At the top of the ramp is a short bulge with two cracks. Take the crack on the right. This bulge, and the crack just above it, is the crux I thought that stemming around it kept the difficulty at 5.7, though others think it is an 8 or 9 (and may do it differently). The cracks both trend towards a wide crack. Upon reaching the wide crack, cut back right towards the big ledge. Ends at a ledge with rap anchor about 40' below the level of Law & Order ledge.
p2: Go straight up the thin crack that improves. A short ways up join "Dukes ledge", then trend left, then back right following the main crack. Ends at another big ledge. Probably 5.9.
p3: Continue up the corner system to a bulge. Go right around the bulge (5.9 awkward, though solid jams) and up, trending left to a large ledge system above other routes. At the crux bulge, place gear carefully to reduce chances of a ledge fall.
If you wish to top out (highly recommended), continue up to the wooded ledge and belay here, if rope drag permits. This pitch is probably the crux.
Topping out: Take LOPD p4 up the face past four bolts and gear to a treed ledge right below the flagpole. This pitch meanders a little, so use long slings on some pieces. From here, you can walk around or select from a few very short pitches directly up to the flagpole (more fun this way).
Along the way, there are numerous opportunities to connect up with other routes including Dukes, Steel Pulse, Law & Order, Black Rock, as well as numerous variations.
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