Angel's Highway

This is a great aid climb to practice your skills and prepare for the larger walls of the world. It aids through the section of wall between Repentance and Remission, generally following cracks with fixed gear and bolt/rivet ladders. Many of the pins are fixed, but bring a few lost arrows becasue there is a very short section on pitch 1 that requires nailing. Please don’t remove fixed pins as they provide the pro for a free variation called Angel's Freeway 5.11d. While not nearly as popular as the Mordor Wall C3 or the Mines Of Moriah C2, this route is still a great outing. 

Pitch 1: Start by aiding a rivet ladder with some bolts mixed in, bring rivet hangers or lots of big nuts for slinging rivets. Pass a horizontal crack which takes a quick tap with a lost arrow to pass. Clip a bolt, then comes a short left trending expando that requires a bit more nailing to get through. A couple LAs should get you to a bat hook move that's hard to see on lead. If you find yourself nailing thin beaks into the upper part of the crack, you might be missing something ;) Stand up high and sling a rivet, then follow a long section of mostly rivets, with bolts every once in a while to keep it chill. Mantel out of your aiders to a small ledge with an anchor and fix the line. Watch out for a block on this ledge as move up and left to the anchor. 120' A2

Pitch 2: This pitch goes clean on fixed pins and small gear, with a short section of free climbing to start. Put your free shoes on, clip a draw to the belay and climb a short slab past to a horizontal and a fixed pin on the left, move right to a bolt and make a move up to a right facing corner with fixed pins. Aid up the corner on pins, then pull onto a big sloping ledge and a short bolt ladder. Aid past 3 bolts, 2 of which were recently replaced (9/26/22). Sling a rivet, then pull into a corner. Follow the corner above through flared cams and more pins, to the top of the steep wall. Mantel to 2 ring anchor, fix the line and have your second clean.. 120' 5.8 C2

Pitch 3: From here it goes free at 5.8 to the top, although it can be a bit dirty as this route doesn’t get climbed much. There is a corner off the belay with 2 bolts in it which is NOT the route and isn't in the guidebook, so don't sandbag yourself. Step left and climb the leftmost corner, pulling through finger locks and stems to a tree ledge. Climb another easier corner until you can pull onto a second ledge with a tree. Step off this ledge onto a dirty slab, using cool solution pockets for hand holds, then take the path of least resistance to trees above. I moved right and walked back left on a dirt ledge, but I saw a much harder looking line that goes straight up a headwall to a bolt, likely related to that unnamed bolted line. Find a sturdy tree and belay from here. Climb the top out of Repentance to the climbers trail and walk off. 100' 5.8 

Look for a rivet/bolt ladder between the Repentance and Remission chimneys, the bashie crack you see to the left of pitch 1 is Reality Check A4+. 

Lots of fixed pins, bolts and rivets. Bring lots of draws, cams from 0.2 to 3 with doubles in 0.3 to 1. Nuts, maybe some micros, rivet hangers, 1 bat hook, a few lost arrows, 1 or 2 beaks for hand placing, a hammer and a funkness cord. A cam hook could be useful but is not mandatory.