Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: BK
Page Views: 481 total · 15/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Jun 24, 2022
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Climb fun moves up past a little roof and 5 bolts. A kneebar just below the 2nd bolt is very helpful. Use a runner on the 3rd bolt, as I had to put it out of line with the other bolts to find good rock. Pull the roof on good holds, and then climb the corner above that is shared with ‘Extra Cool’. At the top of the corner, ‘Extra Cool’ cuts left following the crack, and ‘Captain Chaos’ goes up and right past 2 more bolts. Continue up the obvious corner past the tree to a ledge with a two bolt anchor.

The anchor for ‘Evolution’ is on the right side of the belay ledge. ‘Imp’s Arete' would be a good second pitch to ‘Captain Chaos’.

Location Suggest change

This route starts about 10’ left of ‘Extra Cool’. Look for 4 bolts below the little roof.

Protection Suggest change

2x #0.2-0.5 Camalots; 1x #0.75, 1 Camalots; Stoppers optional; quickdraws/runners, and a knee pad or long pants might be nice for the left kneebar, but it is not necessary.

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