Aiguille de Entreves SW to NE traverse

Fast approach from the lift, easy climbing but good exposure, and suitable for beginners. Often compared to the Arete Des Cosmiques.

Route finding is pretty trivial. stay on the ridge when you can. As you approach the summit the going gets harder and at first pushes you off right of the ridge (south side) and slightly downhill. Scramble through a notch to regain the left (north) side of the ridge and climb a short chimney that leads to an exposed segment protected by two bolts to the first of two bolt anchors. If you want to attain the highly photographed fin (e.g. as in the Damilano guidebook), I believe it's just before the chimney on the north side, so rather than climbing the chimney, pass through the notch and look for some way to make your way back and up along the north side. I haven't done this variation, but it's worth searching for I think. After the bolt belay's comes the crux at 5.6 but there's a fixed rope to aid off of. The move is straightforward if you have large (or gloved) hands since there's an off-hands jam just above the crux. Climb more exposed ground above the crux to another two bolt anchor at the summit. Traverse 5m to the far side of the summit to a single bolt with a rappel ring. 

From here it is possible in snowy conditions to descend the rest of the ridge with no further rappels. If the snow isn't there it may be unstable choss (I don't know). You want a 60m rope apparently if rappelling. I don't know the exact sequence. There were bolts in various places you didn't need them and not in places they seemed useful. We ended up pulling the rope and down climbing snow on the north side of the ridge to a point where we could regain the ridge crest. From here you follow the ridge crest all the way down.

5.4/A0 or 5.6. AD-/PD+, 90 minutes for the approach, 3hrs for the climb.

Between the Aiguille du Toule and Tour Ronde.

Light alpine rock rack. Single 60m rope, glacier gear.