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Cigarette Soup
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.7 from 3
votes
Routes in MACV Wall
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Cambodian Fire S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Cambodian Thunder T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Cigarette Soup S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Domino Theory S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Holiday In Cambodia S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Lead Farmer S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Open Project S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Prairie Fire S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Ranch Hand S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Rolling Thunder T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Tropic Thunder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Tunnel Rat S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Corey Wager |
| Page Views: | 330 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | corey wager on Jun 12, 2022 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
The soup is a combination of a lot of climbing techniques. Start on the arete favoring the right side on poor rock (be mindful this route is brand new, and it seems the lower rock was affected by a past fire so just needs a lot of traffic). Anyways, climb up to the mega-jug around the 3rd bolt. From here, choose your beta as there is a right undercling way and a left undercling way. Climb easier terrain to the belly of the first roof. Either complete a awkward belly flop by going right or use the crystal pocket and higher jug to mantel on the no hands rest ledge. If you stop at the permadraw, the route goes at 10+ish If you continue, it's 11a/b. Find the right hidden undercling around the corner at the second roof, and complete a heady but safe mantel, and romp to the chains.
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