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Rebels of the Rockies

5.11c/d, Sport, 85 ft (26 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 29 votes
FA: Alex A., Srin
Colorado > S Platte > Staunton SP > Reynolds Wall > Main Wall
Warning Access Issue: Falcon Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

Start, climb up a couple of boulders to reach the first bolt, just left of a hueco. Climb a face to an overhang, and traverse left. The start of the first crux section is technical and continuous. At the end of the traverse, moving up, there are two variations. With a sharp eye, you can make this section easier or more 5.11 climbing. Beta is available - look at the tick marks. Move up the face. Climbing is a little easier until the next crux - a few thin liebacks and tricky foot holds, thin crips, The climbing eases up a little bit to a cool mantle move to anchors.

Location

This starts by the trees and a couple of boulders next to the cliff. It is right of Fire on the Mountain and left of Reynolds Gang.

Protection

18 bolts and Mussy hooks.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The end of the lower crux and onto the crimp hauling.
[Hide Photo] The end of the lower crux and onto the crimp hauling.
Rebels of the Rockies.
[Hide Photo] Rebels of the Rockies.
Rebels of the Rockies.
[Hide Photo] Rebels of the Rockies.
Starting up the route.
[Hide Photo] Starting up the route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Sam Chalkley
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] Congrats on the send, Alex! Can't wait to give this one a go! Nov 29, 2022
Sam Chalkley
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] Had a good time on this route. Dec 29, 2022
Schteve DeWhipper
Menver
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Really rad, a little tricky at the top. Hope you got some calves of steel! Feb 25, 2023
Adam bloc
San Golderino, Calirado
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] A double draw under the large roof and reaching down to unclip the last traverse bolt after establishing over the roof really helps with drag. Don't miss the awesome textbook mantle up high, really fun cherry on top of a great long route! Mar 20, 2023
DPug
5.12a
[Hide Comment] This thing feels every bit of 12a to me. Multiple cruxes, low, mid, and high all felt in the 12a range. Also a real calf burner. Apr 13, 2023
Prav C
Arvada, CO
 
[Hide Comment] At the end of the undercling traverse, after I pulled the rope to clip the bolt to the left, somehow the carabiner of the previous draw detached itself from the dogbone. The bolt side carabiner stayed in the bolt hanger, and the dogbone with attached rope side carabiner fell out.

Not 100% sure how that happened, but my guess is pulling the rope rotated the quickdraw, pressing the gate against the bolt hanger, opening the gate, and allowing the dogbone to fall out. I don't remember which way the carabiner spine was facing, but since you clip to the left, facing the spine to the left would have probably mitigated this.

Quickdraw shenanigans aside, great route! Oct 15, 2023
Monty
Golden, CO
 
[Hide Comment] What a route! Great job on this one, Alex. Adam bloc's beta for reducing drag is spot on too. Dec 19, 2023
Grant Reynolds
Golden, CO
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] Great route! Very tough onsight for the grade. I used a runner on the farthest left bolt at the low crux, which was helpful in reducing drag up top. Nov 3, 2024