PRINT: Rock Climb E.L. 200, Eldorado Canyon State Park

E.L. 200

5.10a, Trad, 130 ft (39 m),

Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: unknown
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower One

Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.

Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.

The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.

For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

“Two roads diverged in a wood, and I—
I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference.”

Robert Frost

This is a variation of E.L. 100. I climbed this route on 06/09/22, I’m not sure if it was the FA. It is a worthy addition to the crag. Just like with E.L. 100, if you like tree-hugging, this route is for you!

From E.L. 100: climb any convenient route to the upper ramp (Vertigo would work great if you're a hardman/woman, but then you probably wouldn't be shooting for this route), and then climb the upper ramp past Italian Arete to a point just below and to the right of Mellow Yellow. Find a good-sized, semi-stripped pine tree right next to a pillar/arete. This is your route.

Climb the tree proper to its very "summit", slinging a branch or two along the way. The top of the tree can be a bit unnerving when it's windy. Reach across to place a good RP, and then lean/jump to the rock and "good" holds (5.7d). Another 5 feet up and you can start hauling on jugs and huge, incut huecos up the steep face.

Here is where it gets tricky:

Keep left/with the more direct line and aim for an arete/roof with huecos in it. Place a 0.4, steady yourself before the crux with a questionable 1 in a hueco, move around the arete onto some good jugs, place a few nuts, and finish the route with a similar belay as E.L. 100!

Descent: work your way to to "climber's right" of the route and slightly down to the rap anchors on Chockstone Chimney (which will take you to the Upper Ramp with a single 60m). The most direct route traverses straight right and down: exposed 5.2 or so with some loose rock. You might want to rope up for the traverse.

Protection

Slings for tree, cams 0.1, 0.4, and 1, and a few stoppers small to medium.