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Routes in Eagle Buttress and Environs
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Led Zeppelin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ultralite Flight T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Klesmerica T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shake it Up S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Corner, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ric Rac Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Strangeways T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Levi Lovin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mission to Moscow T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Beth Anne's Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | ? Arie Leeflang, Tim Myers, Pieter Leeflang, April 2022 |
| Page Views: | 412 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Arie on May 27, 2022 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
My personal Levi preference is the 517. They’re probably currently out of style, but so is this route. If you grew up in Utah, you might have experienced the type of Levi Lovin’ found on this route. Expect a bit of grinding, some long reaches, and a tight-rope traverse before your local ecclesiastical authority.
Stage at the base of Strangeways, start climbing a few feet lower (looker’s right; up-canyon). Climb wide cracks, trending right, into a wide chimney with good gear in the back and jugs on the face. Gain a small stance and grapple with a short offwidth (BD #4 or #5 helpful). After the offwidth, stay out of the gully and climb a short face/slab to reach a narrow ledge/crack that is shuffled left (pucker) to last bolt on Jenga/Strangeways. Romp to the chains. Crux is probably the offwidth but the blowing the shuffle might delay your mission call.
Fun, relatively clean, engaging climbing throughout – but probably not going to be on anyone’s tick list. Unless you’re repenting from past transgressions.
If someone climbed this before us, DM me and I'll update the pertinent info and will talk to my bishop.
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