Avg: 1.5 from 2
votes
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
I'm adding this here to hopefully save others from a dangerous sandbag.
Start up rotten rock to an off-fingers roof. Pull the roof and eventually do a crack switch out right then continue up the big hands crack until it ends at a ledge. Make sure you get in a piece at the end of the crack, because now you have to do a mandatory 30ft runout on soft, sandy rock. Commit to the sandy mantel with no gear, then be careful as you approach the anchor. My buddy broke a chunk of rock while clipping the anchor and fell onto the ledge. A fall off the ledge could be really bad.
Left of Polarizer and Carlito's Way, right of Desert Vuarnet.
Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Cary, NC
The start is crumbly, but you can get a deep hand size piece or two that protects you up to the good crack. The pull onto the face is fun (and well protected), the moves up and over to the right crack are engaging.
Once over there, the climbing gets considerably easier but eventually a little crumbly. One #3 and one #4 protect you well up to a big ledge. Then you can walk right and get a decent piece in a horizontal (I placed a .4, could probably do .5 or even .75), sling it long, and do the last few moves. Make sure you're pulling on solid rock and it's easy climbing. Nov 2, 2023