The Resistance

A free version of the Shuruyev-Mirkina-Dynkin Route (5.9 A2 WI3, February 24, 2002). The approach, the difficulty and position of climbing (notably the roof offwidth), and the length of the route and wrapping up atop Pinnacle make this a pretty fine winter alpine adventure. 

Climb the first pitch of Pinnacle Gully to the pin belay, and lean backwards to see if you can spot the offwidth roof crack above you. That is where you'll go.

From the pin belay, step down the gully 10 feet to a left-leaning flake that leads to .2-.3 overhanging seam. Make big reaches through this, mantle onto the face, following the left crack. Climb some less than inspiring rock (be careful if there are parties beneath you on Pinnacle Gully), and step left to a two bolt anchor beneath the massive roof. M7.

Well..step back into the crack and head up that offwidth. Have fun. Build a belay in the next roof. M10.

Over the roof, then through easier terrain to join up with the NE Ridge of the Pinnacle. M6.

Take the line of least resistance to the top of Pinnacle Buttress. I holstered my tools and just rock climbed this. M/5.-easy.

A note on style: this was worked on and freed ground up over the course of two winters. We added the bolt belay at the top of pitch 2 (beneath the crux roof) because if you had a gear belay in the crack, the climber would whip onto the belayer when they came out of the roof. Otherwise, the only fixed gear is the pin belay at the top of pitch 1 of Pinnacle Gully and a couple nuts I couldn't get out at the belay at the start of pitch 4. The route goes great without iron. If you do use it, try to get it out so others can experience it without it. Comp boots were used on the send. 

An intimidating line through the roofs that make up the North Face of Pinnacle Buttress, where not too many routes go. Primal Scream cuts around the roofs, this one goes through them.