PRINT: Rock Climb Never Forever, Willamette Valley

Never Forever

5.13a, Sport, 55 ft (17 m),

Avg: 4 from 14 votes
FA: JD Merritt 2022
Oregon > Willamette Valley > Cane Creek > Moondial

Access Issue: Private Logging Land: no access in high fire danger, don't drive past the gate. Details

Private Logging Land, Burn Area: don't block the gate, don't interfere with salvage logging. Read the signs.

Logging land on approach road, parts of the crag are on public, BLM land.

Private land info on the sign at the gate (photo added).

No access in high fire danger.

Significant hazards from falling trees, erosion, etc.

Or: The Opposable Thumb

Endurance cave climbing with excellent flow. By my count more than half of the holds are pinches. Basically always dry in any weather.

Location

Climb the best part of The Left Hand of Darkness (twin pseudo-tufas), branch up and left with the seam, clipping the left of two nearby bolts (5th bolt), ending at an intermediate anchor (9th bolt) in the light-green rock scar.

Extension, not alot, just forever, continues up and left through the capping roof and burnt tree on the skyline.

Protection

9 glueins, permadraws, to sport hook.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Zach Radke on the lower section shared with Left Hand.

Zach Radke locking off an undercling at the start of the upper section.