Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, 1150 ft (348 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: ??? (Any info from NOLS or other experienced Wind River outfitters please help me out!)
Page Views: 318 total · 9/month
Shared By: Kirt Lawless on May 2, 2022
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

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Description Suggest change

You start this in Dinwoody Cirque, cross the Dinwoody Glacier to the NW side of Mt Warren. Depending on conditions the crevasse near the base may be more or less exposed. After passing the crevasse work the left hand wall of rock for intermittent protection. Follow this for two pitches and create an anchor on the rock wall before traversing right towards the bergschrund. After getting over the bergshcrund quest upward toward Les Dames Anglaises trending slightly left up the gully towards what appears to be the summit ridge. After reaching a small relatively flat area some climbing/scrambling appears. It's tempting to go straight or left but we went through to the right if looking up. Once you made 2-3 exposed 5.5-5.6 rock moves it turns into more of a scramble to the false summit. The summit proper is maybe another 40-50 feet away across an exposed talus ridge so if you choose to go to the summit proper short roping is recommended. 

Location Suggest change

Head toward to obvious most prominent couloir that separates Mt Warren from Doublet Peak. As you climb you should be heading toward Les Dames Anglaises and then trend left toward the summit of Mt Warren

Protection Suggest change

Rock and snow protection. Natural anchors, no good place to anchor on the summit, you must terrain belay or short rope.

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