Type: Trad, Aid, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches
FA: ????
Page Views: 514 total · 14/month
Shared By: Clayton Boyd on May 2, 2022
Admins: jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


4 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

A beautiful setting to start to learn aid, hauling. 

Pitch One: 10ish bolts on low angle slab lead to a ledge. One of the bolts is missing a hanger; you can use a nut as a hanger or it's possible to skip it if you're tall.

Pitch Two: Many bolts go up and over a pretty steep roof. 

Jerry Haripin and I went yesterday, on 5/1/2022, the first pitch is solid, it's been re-bolted with 1/4 inch bolts and good hangers. The upper pitch still has those ancient, sharp looking hangers from the 80s (?), badly in need of replacement. We only did Pitch 1 because the old hangers looked pretty scary. Someone go re-bolt this thing! That roof looks super fun. 

Loads of wild flowers, fragrant shrubs, good views; Stoney Point is clear to the east.

More beta here with photos: http://www.bigwall.com/scag_lac.html#anchor2841432

A photo of the route that ended up in Chatsworth Bouldering area: https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/118272024

Another photo of the route: cdn2.apstatic.com/photos/cl…

Location Suggest change

Park at Rocky Peak Trailhead

https://goo.gl/maps/TsFsGU49pHSG4FuG9

Hike the fire road to here:

34.275414, -118.638522

and take a right to the route: 

34.276495, -118.635995

I recommend looking at the formation in profile on Google Maps 3d satellite view, it makes it really clear. At the moment the trail is totally overgrown but the bushwhacking is very mellow, just grasses and low shrubs. 

If you look on satellite view another, possibly better but longer, approach is available by continuing on the fire road until you're at Turtle Rock ( goo.gl/maps/8n2Zo3mJXVvGR4cAA) and then approaching the back side of the formation in order to rap in from the top.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts, 1 small nut

Photos

6,000 characters
loading