Rocky Peak Bolt Ladder
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British C0
Type: | Trad, Aid, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | ???? |
Page Views: | 514 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | Clayton Boyd on May 2, 2022 |
Admins: | jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
A beautiful setting to start to learn aid, hauling.
Pitch One: 10ish bolts on low angle slab lead to a ledge. One of the bolts is missing a hanger; you can use a nut as a hanger or it's possible to skip it if you're tall.
Pitch Two: Many bolts go up and over a pretty steep roof.
Jerry Haripin and I went yesterday, on 5/1/2022, the first pitch is solid, it's been re-bolted with 1/4 inch bolts and good hangers. The upper pitch still has those ancient, sharp looking hangers from the 80s (?), badly in need of replacement. We only did Pitch 1 because the old hangers looked pretty scary. Someone go re-bolt this thing! That roof looks super fun.
Loads of wild flowers, fragrant shrubs, good views; Stoney Point is clear to the east.
More beta here with photos: http://www.bigwall.com/scag_lac.html#anchor2841432
A photo of the route that ended up in Chatsworth Bouldering area: https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/118272024
Another photo of the route: cdn2.apstatic.com/photos/cl…
Location
Park at Rocky Peak Trailhead
https://goo.gl/maps/TsFsGU49pHSG4FuG9
Hike the fire road to here:
34.275414, -118.638522
and take a right to the route:
34.276495, -118.635995
I recommend looking at the formation in profile on Google Maps 3d satellite view, it makes it really clear. At the moment the trail is totally overgrown but the bushwhacking is very mellow, just grasses and low shrubs.
If you look on satellite view another, possibly better but longer, approach is available by continuing on the fire road until you're at Turtle Rock ( goo.gl/maps/8n2Zo3mJXVvGR4cAA) and then approaching the back side of the formation in order to rap in from the top.
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