Type: Boulder, 15 ft (5 m)
FA: Ivan Greene
Page Views: 356 total · 10/month
Shared By: Christian Prellwitz on May 1, 2022
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Start sitting with both hands matched on either the juggy shelf or utilizing any of the small incuts in the same vicinity. Move the left hand to a very poor crystal sloper and use it to reach around the arete to a small crimp sidepull. From here fire to the slopey lip above and follow it as it angles leftwards, topping out at the apex. 

An incredibly aesthetic line with brilliant movement on very high quality rock. Without question one of Long Island's best boulders. Hard and sustained from start to finish with a tricky mantle to cap things off. The starting moves are very finicky and conditions dependent. Though originally graded v10, this feels a step above the other v10s on the island in my opinion, hence the slash grade.

Important Note: This climb is somewhat tide dependent and needs to be climbed within a few hours of low tide. The sand levels tend to fluctuate a bit on this thing as well, though it isn't as important on this line as 'Smokin Jack' since the starts holds are always within reach.

Location Suggest change

This problem is located on the northeastern arete of the boulder. It is to the right of 'Wetness The Dryness' and to the left of 'Smokin Jack'.

Protection Suggest change

A few pads are helpful as this problem is relatively tall and it covers a fair bit of ground.

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