Type: Trad, Aid, 190 ft (58 m)
FA: Brian Coventry, William Tickman, 2022
Page Views: 334 total · 9/month
Shared By: Brian Coventry on May 1, 2022
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

There's a super thin crack up the east face of Overhang Rock, and it protects well enough to aid, but with ridiculously small gear. Think blue ballnuts, RPs, and flaring cracks in overhung Flatirons rock. Larger placements (0.2-0.4) appear now and then to give you some peace of mind, but on the flipside, the crack sometimes disappears, and you have to free climb 5.7. This wouldn't be an Overhang Rock east face route though without a bit of 5.8 R slab to the finish tree.

Find your way up the ramp to the "dihedral" with the thin crack in the back. The aiding begins immediately off the ground with flared cracks followed by some overhung, thin-crack shenanigans. Move up the crack system into the rotten band, and find a way to pull the roof with a very v-shaped, overhanging crack (crux). Continue pulling roofs, and free climbing above them until you reach the grand finale - 30 feet of unprotectable 5.8 slab to the finish tree. Going right makes this closer to 20 feet if you brought a big cam (4-5?), but the rope drag might make the straight-line path more desirable.

In terms of rock quality, solid placements can be found, but there's also a ton of loose rock. Somehow the piton aiders never found this route, so please don't hammer any in.

Protection Suggest change

This is one of those routes where there is exactly 1 placement that takes exactly 1 piece. Make sure you have that piece:

A standard rack + doubles 0.1-0.3 with offsets; 3-7 blue ballnuts; 1-2 red ballnuts; RPs maybe double; and Tricams.

You can get by with less gear if you back clean. A lot of the blue ballnut placements probably wouldn't hold a big fall anyways.

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