Flakes of Respite

We wanted to climb up the main east face of Overhang Rock, and this is somehow the most protectable line. This route has sparse pro and choss, but that's the way of Overhang Rock.

Getting there: head up to the west face of Overhang Rock like normal, then scramble around the corner to the North. The route starts about 50 feet up from the huge NE ramp.

P1. 5.8 R. Look for the big, blocky flakes above that point leftward - your first piece of gear is just below the bottom one. Start up the slab where you can and make it to that piece. Then wander your way up the large flakes until you eventually are below the saddle roof. We didn't belay here, because the rock quality wasn't up to par, but you could to avoid the extreme rope drag.

P2. 5.8 R. Head right across the slabs using placements near the rotten band for gear (5.7). Follow the band around the corner being careful with microwave-sized lose blocks, and then cross a long unprotectable slab (5.8R) to the anchor tree.

P3. Low 5th Class. Head up the slab/chimney to gain the ridge, and follow the ridge.

P4-5. Low 5th Class. If you made it this far, you can certainly tackle the rest. Follow the ridge, mind the rope drag, and deal with the notch.

Descent: there's a rap anchor just left of the summit.

Warning: this route has very poor rock interspersed with okay rock for the entire first two pitches. Make sure you're familiar with putting cams in flakes before you attempt this. The start of the route is 30 feet of unprotectable 5.7 until your first solid piece.

A standard rack to 4" should work. You could place a #6 on a few pitches if you wanted, but you don't need to.