Cloudwalker

An ephemeral mixed route which roughly follows the summer route or ice out to the right of it. Refer to "Cloud Walkers" rock route beta as well. This page mainly exists to provide a reference point on winter difficulties and conditions.

Although there is a history of mixed climbing this route dating back at least to the early 2000s (it's listed in the 2003 Wilcox guide), mixed climbing this route seems controversial at the moment (April 2022), and it's not clear if a community consensus currently exists on the matter. Think carefully before climbing this in marginal conditions, or climbing this with inexperienced partners. Roller skating all over the route in crampons would be poor form. Sporting conditions are hard to catch, but when it's in it's a fantastic climb. 

There are a couple of photos of the route in conditions which are the least likely to raise objections at the end of this description. The route does come in as a pure ice route on occasion in which case there should be no issues. The slopes above get sun, which produces snowmelt runoff and can feed the route (or compromise it, as the case may be), but the dihedral is in the shade allowing ice to build when conditions are right. As a mixed climb the route seems least likely to raise objections if climbed in Scottish conditions (the route is white and wintery from a distance). These conditions (scottish or pure ice) are most likely to occur in November, December, March and April, particularly following a storm brought in by a cold front.

Route can be climbed in one pitch or two. If climbed in two there is a ledge at about 120' to belay from. Build your anchor in the finger crack which constitutes the summer route. The second pitch follows the corner until it ends and then finishes out left on the buttress. There is a slung block as of April 2022 marking the end of the route. Rappel the route to descend.

A right facing dihedral low in central gully. You cannot see it from where the trail meets the ravine until you've traversed out towards damnation buttress/gully a bit.

Single rack of cams to no. 3, set of stoppers, 3 short screws. Substitute tricams (0.25-2) and large hexes (#2 and #3 sized cam equivalents) if too icy for cams. Double 60m ropes are ideal, but I think you can get off with a single 70m rope in a pinch by using the p2 belay as an intermediate rappel station (a single 60m may come up short on the second rappel, comment below if you find otherwise). The route can theoretically be generously protected, but the nature of the gear and your ability to find it will depend on ice conditions. 

Pitons are sometimes included on alpine mixed racks, but no iron is needed and nailing here would almost certainly raise objections from members of the community. The very modern looking piton on P1 is perplexing (first recorded ascent is late 1980s, so post clean climbing revolution, and this is a modern BD knifeblade). There are ample perfectly good stopper placements nearby. The pro here is fairly tame. This is not Cannon.