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The Stinkbug

5.10b PG13, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Dave Evans, Todd Gordon, Brian Sillasen, 5/1986.
California > Joshua Tree NP > Central Joshua… > Echo Rock Area > Echo Rock > Echo Rock - E Face > Echo Rock - E Face (L…
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

Start up a sharp, thin, right-facing flake to reach a splitter hand crack. Make a steep rightward traverse (wild!) to reach a tips crack that ascends past a dike to the top. The unfortunate grainy start and chossy finish do detract and dishearten, even though the loose bits come before and after the real climbing. The business sections are clean, steep, and fantastic.  

Long anchor extension is needed for a big, flat boulder that is about eight feet back from the lip, or for another equally far away boulder to the side.  

To descend, walk off the back and down to climber's left, via the obvious rock gully visible behind the climb when coming up the approach scramble.

Location

This climb is located near the middle of Echo Rock's east face, to the left of Closed On Mondays.  The latter has a start with a similar description in books, up cracks that soon also shape into a right-facing flake to reach a hand crack, but finishes very differently, so take care not to err onto the wrong route.

Protection

Thin to 2.5", gear anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Stinkbug at a wind-sheltered gap on the east side of Echo Rock.  Photo by Robert.
[Hide Photo] The Stinkbug at a wind-sheltered gap on the east side of Echo Rock. Photo by Robert.
Contemplating the steep rightward traverse to connect to the tips crack and dyke.  Photo by Robert.
[Hide Photo] Contemplating the steep rightward traverse to connect to the tips crack and dyke. Photo by Robert.