Type: Ice, Alpine, 196 ft (59 m)
FA: G. Kleeves, J. Zaugg, M. Davis, 2022
Page Views: 440 total · 12/month
Shared By: mike d on Apr 3, 2022
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is another East Fork monster with a short climbing season. In early spring, this massive, broad curtain appears on a 200-foot cliff. Though probably variable, a steep pillar is known to form on the right side.

Stage under an outcrop to the right. 50 feet of easy ice or neve leads to a tricky, mushroomed column. Atop this the main pillar rises through the hollow to meet the curtain, where the climbing eases to the top.

Anchor options aren't great above the ice, and it might be difficult to reach anything, even with 70m ropes.

When sunny, objective hazard can be extreme.

Location Suggest change

From the East Fork junction, hike 1.6 miles to the summer trailhead. Continue south on the trail for 1.5 miles to a clearing directly east of the climb. Leave the trail here, cross the creek, and hike due West, following the drainage 900 feet up to the cliff.

Total distance from the winter parking is 8.5 miles.

WARNING: This is avalanche terrain. The 1200-foot gully above empties on this route.

Protection Suggest change

2 60m ropes, 10+ screws, v-thread kit, snowshoes.

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