Kelseya
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.6 from 7 votes
Type: | Sport, 375 ft (114 m), 5 pitches |
FA: | D.Bachen and R. McVie |
Page Views: | 1,225 total · 36/month |
Shared By: | Dan Bachen on Mar 30, 2022 |
Admins: | GRK, Zach Wahrer |
Description
Note that this beta is more accurate than the book.
A fun climb that links slabs of featured stone for 4-5 pitches. The route is mostly easy climbing and the crux is short and well protected. The weathered limestone and abundant single flower kelseya give this route a pleasant alpine feel that contrasts with the more modern bolt spacing. Rock quality is generally good and the vast majority of the larger loose blocks have been cleaned, but use caution when pulling on loose looking features or straying from the bolt line. Much gravel still can be found on ledges, helmets are a good idea.
P1. Climb the featured slab right of a small corner. Step left and belay on a small ledge. 5.6 80ft
P2. Just above the belay negotiate an overlap and work up the featured grey rock to the top of the slab. Continue past the rappel anchor onto the large ledge and belay. Note the rap anchor you pass is necessary to use on the way back down if your rappelling with a 60m. 5.7 110ft
P3. A short pitch up wonderfully featured rock gets you to the next ledge. Belay from bolts at the back of the ledge 5.4 35ft
P4. Pad up the slab trending right to a stance in an alcove 5.6 105 ft
P5. The crux. Tackle the steep (but short) step above the belay. Romp up the slab to a notch at the top of the formation. 5.7+ 45 ft. Can be combined with P4.
Descent: The route can be rappelled with a single 60m. Note that a 60m will not reach from the anchors on the ledge above P2 to the P1 anchors, use the intermediate rap station at the top of the slab.
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